Cheese Sauce

Classically called Mornay, this is simply a béchamel with cheese melted in — a smooth, glossy cheese sauce for gratins, sandwiches, and macaroni. The cheese does as much as the sauce beneath it: young cheeses melt smoothly, sharp ones bring bigger flavor, and knowing how much to add and how gently to heat it is what separates a silky sauce from a broken one.

Makes about 2½-4 cups, depending on the cheese amount

Ingredients

• 1 batch Béchamel (above)
• For gratins or Croque Monsieur: 4-8 oz Gruyère, Emmentaler, or Swiss cheese, shredded or thinly sliced
• For Mac and Cheese: 16 oz cheese, preferably 8 oz Swiss cheese and 8 oz sharp cheddar, shredded or thinly sliced

Sauces

Beurre Monté Hot Wing Sauce B Beurre Blanc Roasted Red Pepper Sauce Port Reduction Sauce Sauce au Poivre Mustard Sauce Sauce Bordelaise Sauce Marsala Tare Teriyaki Sauce Plum Sauce Barbecue Sauce Béchamel Tomato Basil Sauce

Concentrating Flavor→

Method

Prepare the Béchamel as directed, then, off the heat, stir in the cheese a handful at a time, letting each addition melt fully before adding more. Season with salt to taste.

A Note on Cheese

Emmentaler, Gruyère, and Swiss cheese are all in the same general family of Alpine-style melting cheeses. They are not identical, but in a sauce they behave similarly: nutty, smooth, and reliable. For gratins or Croque Monsieur, use only Gruyère, Emmentaler, Swiss, or a mix of those cheeses. In France, a half Gruyère and half Comté mix is standard for a richer cheese sauce. Comté and cheddar do not taste the same, but they bring a similar sharpness, which is why half Swiss and half cheddar is a practical American version for Mac and Cheese.

The sharper the cheese, the more flavor it brings, but the more carefully you need to handle the heat. Young cheeses melt more easily and processed cheeses melt easiest of all, but they bring less complexity. If you are nervous about breaking a cheese sauce, use all American cheese the first time. It melts beautifully and gives you confidence with the method.

Do not use bagged pre-shredded cheese for sauce if you can avoid it. It usually contains anti-caking additives that can make the sauce grainy or stubborn. Shred cheese yourself, or buy deli-sliced cheese from the supermarket counter. Thin slices melt quickly, save time, and do not have the same coating as bagged shreds.