How to Cook · Part 8

Sauces

Cold sauces, crisp greens, and a vinaigrette you'll use forever.

#Concentrating Flavor

A sauce is generally more concentrated than a stock or soup and is served in a smaller amount. It may add richness, acidity, moisture, sweetness, or contrast to the main ingredient.

Many practical sauces begin in the pan where meat or vegetables were browned. Adding liquid dissolves the fond and captures the flavor already present.

Most sauces in this book rely on a few basic techniques:

  • Deglazing adds liquid to loosen the browned fond attached to the pan.
  • Reducing evaporates water to concentrate flavor and thicken a liquid slightly.
  • Mounting with butter adds cold butter near the end to create richness and a glossy texture.
  • Building a roux combines cooked flour and fat to thicken sauces such as béchamel.
  • Emulsifying combines fat and water into a smooth mixture, as in vinaigrettes and butter sauces.

Once you understand these techniques, many named sauces become variations on the same few patterns.

#Butter Sauces

Butter sauces are emulsions built by coaxing butter into water, wine, vinegar, or another liquid without letting the fat separate. The control point is heat: warm enough to melt the butter, gentle enough that the sauce stays glossy and whole. These sauces are rich, fragile, and best made close to serving.

#Reduction Based Sauces

Reduction-based sauces get their body from concentration. Liquid goes into a pan, often after deglazing, and simmering drives off water until the flavor tightens and the texture lightly coats a spoon. Stock, wine, cream, aromatics, and fond all matter, but the main technique is patience: reduce enough to concentrate, not so far that the sauce turns salty, sticky, or harsh.

#Gastriques

Gastriques are sweet-sour reduction sauces. The usual move is caramelizing sugar, cutting it with vinegar, then adding fruit, stock, spices, or other flavorings and reducing until balanced. They are especially useful with rich meats because sweetness, acidity, and bitterness from the caramel all push back against fat.

#Roux Based Sauces

Roux-based sauces are thickened with flour cooked in fat. Unlike reductions, they do not need to concentrate heavily to gain body; the starch does the thickening. The key is cooking the roux long enough to remove the raw flour taste, then adding liquid gradually so the sauce stays smooth.

#Tomato Sauces

Tomato sauces get their body from the fruit itself cooking down rather than from butter, reduction, or a roux. The one technique that matters is patience: simmer the tomatoes with aromatics long enough to lose their raw, tinny edge and turn round, sweet, and glossy.